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sewing: stretch twill bryce cargo pants

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This post is written by Jessamy of jessamybmakes.com.

I’m so happy to be on the blog sharing my new stretch twill Bryce Cargo pants with you today. I’m not sure I can convey how much I love these new pants. Why I waited so long to make them is beyond me, but I’m happy to have them in my life now!

The 7oz. stretch twill is perfect for the Bryce Cargos. It is a medium weight stretch twill with the recommended 3% spandex. The pattern calls for about a 30% stretch, and this twill is listed as having a 12% stretch, but I did not find the difference to be a problem.

The stone color has a nice matte finish, with no real sheen. Nobody wants shiny pants, unless maybe you’re out at the club, but I am usually at the grocery store, so matte makes me happy.  

I spent a little time going back and forth deciding what size to sew. My measurements put me between 2 sizes. I have a 36.5” hip, which lands between the size 4 and 6. The pattern recommends to size up if you are in between sizes.

Based on some other pants fitting I have done, I decided to throw caution to the wind and size down instead. Because of that bold decision, I also made a muslin out of some stretch denim I had left over from another project.

I was pleasantly surprised when I found I didn’t need to alter the pattern! That is not the norm for me!

Even though I made a muslin, I wanted to make sure I was 100% satisfied with the fit, so I also baste fit these. Baste fitting allows you to double check your final fit before you start topstitching everything into place. There is a lot of top stitching on these pants, so I would highly recommend a baste fit!

To baste fit you simply use long basting stitches to sew the legs and front and back rise together. I also basted on the rear pockets to check placement. After basting these Bryce’s together, I decided to make a few small tweaks. 

First, I wanted a little bit more room in the calves. I had quite a bit of pooling at the knees, which I felt was coming from the lower legs being too tight. I simply decreased the seam allowance to 1/4” below the knee to give myself a little bit more room.

These pants have a 1/2” seam allowance, so not as much “wiggle room” as 5/8″ or 1″ seam allowance would give- something important to note if you are thinking about letting out the seams.

I also decided to scoop out the front crotch ever so slightly, which is often called a “round pubis” adjustment. I did this mainly for comfort, as I didn’t notice many drag lines in this area. Lastly, I decided to move the back pockets about 1/2” closer to the center back seam. This was mostly based on personal preference.

Looking back at the pictures, I can see some wrinkling that could have been mitigated with a few more small adjustments.  However, I didn’t want to overfit these to the point where they were uncomfortable (ask me why I know that can happen).

I’m on the move a lot during the day and really don’t have time for tight or uncomfortable pants. These have a nice slim fit but are still practical for all my regular mom tasks.

Have I mentioned that these pants have pockets? So many good pockets! The cargo pocket on the side is my absolute favorite. I can easily drop my phone in one and keys in the other and be on my way.

I almost left the top flaps off the back pockets. Originally I thought I wouldn’t want the added bulk. I am so glad I decided to put them on because they really add to the cargo styling.

I’m excited to wear these stretch twill Bryce Cargo pants this fall. The stretch twill is the perfect weight for fall.

Have you ventured into pant making yet? What is your favorite style pant for fall?


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